I'm still here. Actually, I haven't really been any place much other than here. Not working on the houseblog, no. But working on the house. Workingworkingworkingworkingworking ....
Tired, crabby, frustrated; no way I'll get done what I'd hoped to get done by the time my friend from England arrives on the 18th, but still at it, obsessed, devoted, immolated.
I'm only up at my computer now because I was seized suddenly by the fear that I'd forgotten in the throes of house idolatry to pay one of my credit card bills. So I left the trim I was working on in the basement to run up to the 3rd floor study to make sure.
Yes, it was already paid. And I'm paying this debt to houseblogdom, putting down a minuscule installment payment on what I owe to my two or three readers, to give you some indication on what's been going on at the Sow's Ear the past month.
Heaven help us, what hasn't? The spray foam people finally came (no, that was February, but never mind, they did). The roof repair contractor and his son showed up three or so weeks ago (he was originally scheduled for early December) and took care of everything on the list, and a couple-three other things beside. What they couldn't rectify was the wet on the face of the chimney breast in the living room, which issue they diagnosed as being due to my having no liner for the hot water heater in my chimney-- the warm water vapor condenses on the cold brick et voilĂ ! failing skim coat and sticky old wallpaper paste on the living room side. So I've had plumbing contractors marching through sizing up the height of the chimney, and I've accepted a bid from one who's supposed to come install me a metal liner early next week, hopefully before Janet* arrives. And things have gotten to the point with my own work that I had to get the electrical contractors in to bid out installing properly-grounded circuits for the outlets that go in the baseboards that I hope soon to be reaffixing. One bid was so astronomical I thought I should suck it up and rewire them myself after all; the other, from the guy who seemed to know more what he was talking about, was low enough to make me feel it wouldn't be worth the time and tribulation for me to try to do it myself. And unlike the other guy, he can work with the trim installed. I plan to have him come in May, if I've got the place reassembled by then.
But me? Damn. A short list, in no particular order:
1) Shellacking woodwork, starting with the stairhall's pieces and going on to the ones for the living room.
2) Buying select white pine 1x boards and having my friend Steve* rip them to size to replace missing or hopelessly damaged yellow pine originals.
3) Shellacking white pine replacement pieces to try to get them to match the yellow pine originals (semi-successful, if you don't mind a little streakiness).
4) Finishing up the Big Wally's plaster repair I started last month.
5) Finding out that even Big Wally's won't get rid of a wall bulge caused by settling from the floor above.
6) Doing an obsessive amount of research on how properly to hang my William Morris wallpaper, and finding out about blankstock liner paper and mix-it-yourself wheat paste and happening on a good source for both.
7) In the course of said researches, learning about a homemade device that should make it easier for me to remove the old paper from the sheetrocked walls in the dining room and front room, and pulling together the pieces and parts and beginning to make my own.
8) Trying repeatedly to get the old wallpaper paste removed from the living room walls and failing miserably, unless my goal is to take off all the previous owners' repairs.
9) Carrying on an extensive email correspondence with the proprietor of the concern referred to in No. 6 and learning from him a) that I can use a Zinsser product called Gardz to encapsulate the old paste and size, and b) what "size" is and how to make it.
10) Doing the Big Wally's routine on the east wall of the living room, especially down at the bottom along the line of the baseboard, where the plaster seemed to be flapping in the breeze.
11) Ordering Gardz over the Internet (Lowe's and HD don't carry it around here) and applying a first coat on the north and east LR walls.
12) Cutting to fit and screwing in pieces of drywall to replace the plaster that fell to pieces when I removed the baseboard along the east living room wall.
13) Taping cracks in my living room walls with drywall tape and mudding, sanding, and mudding again. (Which I hate-hate-hate!).
14) Locating the most workable location for the outlet I've wanted for years in the 1st floor hall, and cutting the hole for it (happily, it falls right in the drywall under what I call the portal between the hall and the living room, where my POs-1 partially closed in what used to be a large doorway.
15) Taking up the ridiculous sheet vinyl from the hallway floor, and discovering that the plywood underneath seems to be glued as well as nailed down.
16) Doing the long-postponed measured drawing of the existing structure under the 1st floor hall, and submitting it to the John Bridge Tile Forum to find out if it can support ceramic tile.
17) Getting an answer from one of the tile pros there that my structure might do, but unless I tear out both the plywood and the original tongue-and-groove subfloor and sink new plywood between the joists, I'll be way out of Code due to the odd riser height at the bottom stair.
18) Saying O crap! and checking into linoleum tile and other, thinner alternatives, and deciding probably I'll clean up and smooth down the plywood that's there and paint a faux tile pattern instead.
19) Using some medium red-brown paint left behind by my POs on the existing LR cornice moulding to even out the place where they or somebody got ceiling paint on it, then going over that with two coats of warm-walnut tinted shellac (north wall cornice is done; east wall in progress).
20) Stripping, repairing, and sanding the trim that goes on the kitchen side of the doorway from the 1st floor hall-- nasty job, since it doesn't seem ever to have been shellacked, so the paint wouldn't just chip.
21) Removing the rest of the wallpaper from the east and most of the south living room walls (yes, this should have come a lot sooner, but I just remembered).
22) With the help of my friend Frieda*, remeasuring for the new chair rail for both storeys in the stairhall, sizing the lower part of the walls there, and hanging blankstock on them, but not before going back and filling and patching ten dozen dips and holes I never noticed till the work light was shining on them.
23) Except for an occasional mowing and covering the roses when a frost warning's on, letting the garden take its own course this spring.
Did I say this was supposed to be a short list? Gaw. And I need to go back down the basement and prime that kitchen side trim and the trim for the doorway to my bedroom, because oh, yeah, I got the loan of a nail gun today, and if all goes well I can start rehanging trim this weekend and that needs to go up before-- well, never mind, it'd take too long.
Immer zu! Immer zu! Ohne Rast und Ruh'!
Showing posts with label ductwork. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ductwork. Show all posts
Tuesday, April 10, 2012
Sunday, October 23, 2011
Sometimes It's Good to Be Wrong
Tackled the attic insulation removal this afternoon and evening. The process disabused me of a few false notions.
Starting at the back end, literally: The knob and tube wiring I discovered yesterday is disconnected; it isn't live. The receptacle I thought it served is wired up with standard white three-wire cable. Nice not to have to be concerned about that.
(Incidentally, there's also a long disconnected strand of yellow three-wire cable [sorry, I should be able to remember the gauges of these things-- yellow is 12 gauge? Or 14? Oh, never mind!) on the back side of the knee wall; I uncovered it when I took a piece of cardboard tacked to the studs down, and happily, it's not live, either. I think my electrician must've put that in; why didn't I have him connect it up? I certainly could use another outlet under my work table!)
I was also wrong in thinking there was a lot of loose-fill rock wool between the batt insulation and the underside of the sheathing. No, there was rock wool in there at one time; I could see little tufts of it stuck to the rafters and sheathing planks here and there. But for the most part, it was gone. So I didn't have to endure clouds of rock wool tumbling down on my head, as I'd anticipated. True, I was encased in a hooded Tyvek coverall suit with attached booties, my face armored with an P100 anti-mold particle mask and goggles with no vents, but I hadn't fancied the prospect, all the same.
And I was wrong in thinking my roof is structured with 2x4 rafters. No, they're 2x6s, or 1-5/8 x 5-3/4, to be exact. The foam insulation guy was calculating on spraying on six inches, covering rafters and all, to get me to an R-value of 24, at least. Not sure how this development will affect things. Technically it could mean they could spray on eight inches or more, and maybe get me to the R-38 that's recommended for attics these day. But that'd up the price beyond the just-barely-manageable figure I have from him now.
What else was I wrong about? I was wrong in thinking that the black I was seeing on the back face of the kraft paper vapor barrior was mold. Ha, silly me, that paper is black on the back side! And, examining the insulation itself more closely, it's possible that the dark stuff I saw in the pink was only dirt, and not mold at all. At least, it didn't look growy, just like dust.
Does that mean I was wrong about the whole project? Not at all. The batts were definitely damp that day in mid-September, and dirt is a classic place for mold to lodge in fiberglass insulation. And with the facing paper hanging in tatters in so many places, the vapor barrier was grossly compromised. I would rather not spend the money on this at this time, but it'll be money well-spent.
I was wrong in thinking the batts were held up solely by the lath battens that ran horizontally from rafter to rafter. Yes, they gave some support, but mostly the pink stuff stayed put by means of staples-- lots of staples-- driven though the kraft paper wings into the rafters. So I didn't have that stuff falling down on me, either. Very glad to be wrong in this case. And I was wrong in planning to roll up each batt in a piece of .5 mil plastic before I put it into the 55 gallon black bag. I tried it once, on the first piece I took down, and the plastic got woefully out of control and simply would not stay put. So I gave up on it and just rolled the batts in on themselves, taped them with cheap masking tape, and stuffed them in the bags.
Speaking of the bags, it's good that the insulation guy was wrong in predicting I'd end up with thirty bags of the stuff. Nope. Four bags of insulation and one of cardboard, small pieces of batten, and dirty dropcloths.
I've mentioned the cardboard. It appears I was wrong in thinking that it was a pis aller employed by my POs-1 (who were, I believe, the ones who installed the pink insulation) to cover the gaps at the toe of the batts. In the first place, the batts ran all the way down below the floor level, into the soffit space. In the second place, it was abundantly evident that that cardboard dated from way, way before than my previous owners two back. The cardboard lining the brick gable wall on the north end was clearly installed before the wood floor. It was wedged between the floorboards and the brick and I had to cut it out with a utility knife. Whether it dates from the time the house was built in 1915 or so, or whether it was put in to protect the wall when the attic was finished later, I don't know. I'm pretty sure that the room I use as my study wasn't original, as the 1916 tax assessment only lists three bedrooms. But I saw at least one place where cardboard was used as shimming between structural members, so it's entirely possible that the house was built with a wholly-floored attic, with exposed rafters and the stairs leading up to it, and the knee walls and plaster came later. I estimate that the room was done fairly early; pre-WWII, at least, since the trim matches what's downstairs (sans cornices) and the woodwork was originally shellacked, like the rest of the house.
Found something else curious, deeper in towards the front of the house: There are three or four bays where the tongue-and-groove flooring doesn't go almost to the toe of the rafters, but there are wide planks of removable joinery notched in between the rafters instead. I didn't lift any of them out the whole way, but when I shifted them I saw galvanized metal below. Duct work? A cold air return? From where? I think this would be over my dressing room, but the location is all wrong. This really looks original. What can it be? Those planks will be immovable once the foam is in; will that matter?
In fact, speaking of the cardboard again, I found vestiges of heavy cardboard nailed to the underside of the rafters (which I found about impossible to remove, by the way), and I strongly suspect it was used to contain the rock wool that used to be in the roof.
On the back faces of some of this cardboard I saw evidence of water marking. But it was dry now and I can only hope that that was from earlier leakage, like that which moved the POs-1 to remove the slate roof and put up fiberglass shingles. (I found a piece of a slate at the eaves!). There was also some water staining on the floor near the stub of the old kitchen chimney. I don't say I won't give that a good scrubbing with borax, but it was dry, too. In fact, the whole space was dry, and in some cases, too dry. I didn't like the way pieces of wood would flake off some structural members when I was brushing them clean after the insulation was down. I'm thinking a nice coat of spray foam will protect them, yes?
There were some things I was wrong about that I don't find so gratifying. The Tyvek suit was a success, overall (pun!), and getting one that fit me by ordering online was the right way to go. But I wish I'd gotten the gloves with the longer arms to them. The 12" cuff kind I got you'd think would be long enough. But the sleeves of my sweatshirt kept pushing them down, and they would creep out from under the elastic cuff of the suit. I did pretty well at keeping fiberglass itchies off my skin-- except for that half inch of so at my wrists.
And despite my trying to order goggles in a "women's" size, they were still too big and conflicted with the particulate mask. Great goggles, great mask, but my head simply isn't that big. The two pieces of equipment got in each other's way and prevented me from having a proper seal on either. The goggles quickly fogged up so I was working half blind, and the mask didn't sit tightly, so stuff still got up my nose and made it run. Every three batts or so I'd have to take off the mask and blow my nose, it was so bad. I'm still rather stopped up now.
But getting the headlamp was a fine idea; really, the only way to go, even though it barely perched on what was left of my forehead. From the packaging I'd expected the batteries to last only five hours, but they kept going a lot longer, and are still good now.
I mentioned the 55-gallon bags. My bright idea of throwing them out the north window once they were filled didn't turn out quite as planned. The first one rolled off the back porch roof quite easily, but the next one landed square in the middle of the roof and stayed there. And my attempts to use the second and third to dislodge it only succeeded in creating a logjam. So there I was, at maybe 11:00 o'clock at night, out on my porch roof trying to shove these big black trash bags down into the yard. Still in the Tyvek suit, which wasn't the cleverest thing I've done all evening. The booties on it give no traction whatever, so walking on the shingles was out of the question. I had to lie on my side and kind of slither down till I could put a foot to the bags and send them over. Of course they wouldn't go the with the first kick, and I had to creep lower and lower towards the eaves, hoping to gracious that any momentum I gave the bags wouldn't carry me over with them. "Wrong" wouldn't've half described that!
They finally teetered on the edge of the gutter and rolled down, taking their sweet time about it. Meanwhile, I saw that my thirteen-year-old calico cat had taken advantage of the open window from the guest bedroom to hop out onto the roof and do a little exploring of her own. Happily, I had no compulsion to go lunging after her. I slithered back up the way I came and called her to me once I was back on the sill. She came, but changed her mind at the last moment and veered off. Too bad, my girl! and I picked her up by the scruff of her neck and hauled her safely in.
One last happy example of my being wrong: It only took about three and a half hours to get the insulation down, rolled, bagged, and out the window. It took the other three and a half hours to brush down the rafters and sheathing, remove stray pieces of rock wool, and clean up the floor. One push-broom and three vacuum cleaners that took! I think the hose of my shop vac is almost shot, which doesn't help.
Is the job done? Well, almost. I found there's rock wool in the soffit space, and I haven't removed it, since I'm not sure how that'll interface with the spray foam. I want that area insulated, but somehow I don't see filling that whole space with the icynene. I mean, won't that drive up the price, and what if I do get a chance to remove the aluminum exterior trim and the wood board underneath needs replaced? On the other hand, does the foam have to run all the way to the gutter to prevent ice dams? I may have to cut 1x boards and run the floor all the way to where the roof comes down. Job for the portable circular saw, I expect.
I have the same question about the rock wool in the far southeast corner behind the lefthand closet. There's a little triangle of space with insulation blown into it; will they foam that, or do I need to create a barrier to separate the two?
There should be no question about the old birds' nest materials in the northeast corner behind the old chimney. It's got to go. But somehow I didn't want to remove it out tonight. Don't know why. May have something to do with the kink in my shop vac house. Maybe I want to see if there are any ornithological specimens in the mess. But I'd rather deal with it in the daytime.
Just sitting here typing this, I can feel that the room is colder than usual. Even failing, that batt insulation did a reasonable job keeping the 3rd story warm. Here's to the spray foam doing the job even better.
Starting at the back end, literally: The knob and tube wiring I discovered yesterday is disconnected; it isn't live. The receptacle I thought it served is wired up with standard white three-wire cable. Nice not to have to be concerned about that.
(Incidentally, there's also a long disconnected strand of yellow three-wire cable [sorry, I should be able to remember the gauges of these things-- yellow is 12 gauge? Or 14? Oh, never mind!) on the back side of the knee wall; I uncovered it when I took a piece of cardboard tacked to the studs down, and happily, it's not live, either. I think my electrician must've put that in; why didn't I have him connect it up? I certainly could use another outlet under my work table!)
I was also wrong in thinking there was a lot of loose-fill rock wool between the batt insulation and the underside of the sheathing. No, there was rock wool in there at one time; I could see little tufts of it stuck to the rafters and sheathing planks here and there. But for the most part, it was gone. So I didn't have to endure clouds of rock wool tumbling down on my head, as I'd anticipated. True, I was encased in a hooded Tyvek coverall suit with attached booties, my face armored with an P100 anti-mold particle mask and goggles with no vents, but I hadn't fancied the prospect, all the same.
And I was wrong in thinking my roof is structured with 2x4 rafters. No, they're 2x6s, or 1-5/8 x 5-3/4, to be exact. The foam insulation guy was calculating on spraying on six inches, covering rafters and all, to get me to an R-value of 24, at least. Not sure how this development will affect things. Technically it could mean they could spray on eight inches or more, and maybe get me to the R-38 that's recommended for attics these day. But that'd up the price beyond the just-barely-manageable figure I have from him now.
What else was I wrong about? I was wrong in thinking that the black I was seeing on the back face of the kraft paper vapor barrior was mold. Ha, silly me, that paper is black on the back side! And, examining the insulation itself more closely, it's possible that the dark stuff I saw in the pink was only dirt, and not mold at all. At least, it didn't look growy, just like dust.
Does that mean I was wrong about the whole project? Not at all. The batts were definitely damp that day in mid-September, and dirt is a classic place for mold to lodge in fiberglass insulation. And with the facing paper hanging in tatters in so many places, the vapor barrier was grossly compromised. I would rather not spend the money on this at this time, but it'll be money well-spent.
I was wrong in thinking the batts were held up solely by the lath battens that ran horizontally from rafter to rafter. Yes, they gave some support, but mostly the pink stuff stayed put by means of staples-- lots of staples-- driven though the kraft paper wings into the rafters. So I didn't have that stuff falling down on me, either. Very glad to be wrong in this case. And I was wrong in planning to roll up each batt in a piece of .5 mil plastic before I put it into the 55 gallon black bag. I tried it once, on the first piece I took down, and the plastic got woefully out of control and simply would not stay put. So I gave up on it and just rolled the batts in on themselves, taped them with cheap masking tape, and stuffed them in the bags.
Speaking of the bags, it's good that the insulation guy was wrong in predicting I'd end up with thirty bags of the stuff. Nope. Four bags of insulation and one of cardboard, small pieces of batten, and dirty dropcloths.
I've mentioned the cardboard. It appears I was wrong in thinking that it was a pis aller employed by my POs-1 (who were, I believe, the ones who installed the pink insulation) to cover the gaps at the toe of the batts. In the first place, the batts ran all the way down below the floor level, into the soffit space. In the second place, it was abundantly evident that that cardboard dated from way, way before than my previous owners two back. The cardboard lining the brick gable wall on the north end was clearly installed before the wood floor. It was wedged between the floorboards and the brick and I had to cut it out with a utility knife. Whether it dates from the time the house was built in 1915 or so, or whether it was put in to protect the wall when the attic was finished later, I don't know. I'm pretty sure that the room I use as my study wasn't original, as the 1916 tax assessment only lists three bedrooms. But I saw at least one place where cardboard was used as shimming between structural members, so it's entirely possible that the house was built with a wholly-floored attic, with exposed rafters and the stairs leading up to it, and the knee walls and plaster came later. I estimate that the room was done fairly early; pre-WWII, at least, since the trim matches what's downstairs (sans cornices) and the woodwork was originally shellacked, like the rest of the house.
Found something else curious, deeper in towards the front of the house: There are three or four bays where the tongue-and-groove flooring doesn't go almost to the toe of the rafters, but there are wide planks of removable joinery notched in between the rafters instead. I didn't lift any of them out the whole way, but when I shifted them I saw galvanized metal below. Duct work? A cold air return? From where? I think this would be over my dressing room, but the location is all wrong. This really looks original. What can it be? Those planks will be immovable once the foam is in; will that matter?
In fact, speaking of the cardboard again, I found vestiges of heavy cardboard nailed to the underside of the rafters (which I found about impossible to remove, by the way), and I strongly suspect it was used to contain the rock wool that used to be in the roof.
On the back faces of some of this cardboard I saw evidence of water marking. But it was dry now and I can only hope that that was from earlier leakage, like that which moved the POs-1 to remove the slate roof and put up fiberglass shingles. (I found a piece of a slate at the eaves!). There was also some water staining on the floor near the stub of the old kitchen chimney. I don't say I won't give that a good scrubbing with borax, but it was dry, too. In fact, the whole space was dry, and in some cases, too dry. I didn't like the way pieces of wood would flake off some structural members when I was brushing them clean after the insulation was down. I'm thinking a nice coat of spray foam will protect them, yes?
There were some things I was wrong about that I don't find so gratifying. The Tyvek suit was a success, overall (pun!), and getting one that fit me by ordering online was the right way to go. But I wish I'd gotten the gloves with the longer arms to them. The 12" cuff kind I got you'd think would be long enough. But the sleeves of my sweatshirt kept pushing them down, and they would creep out from under the elastic cuff of the suit. I did pretty well at keeping fiberglass itchies off my skin-- except for that half inch of so at my wrists.
And despite my trying to order goggles in a "women's" size, they were still too big and conflicted with the particulate mask. Great goggles, great mask, but my head simply isn't that big. The two pieces of equipment got in each other's way and prevented me from having a proper seal on either. The goggles quickly fogged up so I was working half blind, and the mask didn't sit tightly, so stuff still got up my nose and made it run. Every three batts or so I'd have to take off the mask and blow my nose, it was so bad. I'm still rather stopped up now.
But getting the headlamp was a fine idea; really, the only way to go, even though it barely perched on what was left of my forehead. From the packaging I'd expected the batteries to last only five hours, but they kept going a lot longer, and are still good now.
I mentioned the 55-gallon bags. My bright idea of throwing them out the north window once they were filled didn't turn out quite as planned. The first one rolled off the back porch roof quite easily, but the next one landed square in the middle of the roof and stayed there. And my attempts to use the second and third to dislodge it only succeeded in creating a logjam. So there I was, at maybe 11:00 o'clock at night, out on my porch roof trying to shove these big black trash bags down into the yard. Still in the Tyvek suit, which wasn't the cleverest thing I've done all evening. The booties on it give no traction whatever, so walking on the shingles was out of the question. I had to lie on my side and kind of slither down till I could put a foot to the bags and send them over. Of course they wouldn't go the with the first kick, and I had to creep lower and lower towards the eaves, hoping to gracious that any momentum I gave the bags wouldn't carry me over with them. "Wrong" wouldn't've half described that!
They finally teetered on the edge of the gutter and rolled down, taking their sweet time about it. Meanwhile, I saw that my thirteen-year-old calico cat had taken advantage of the open window from the guest bedroom to hop out onto the roof and do a little exploring of her own. Happily, I had no compulsion to go lunging after her. I slithered back up the way I came and called her to me once I was back on the sill. She came, but changed her mind at the last moment and veered off. Too bad, my girl! and I picked her up by the scruff of her neck and hauled her safely in.
One last happy example of my being wrong: It only took about three and a half hours to get the insulation down, rolled, bagged, and out the window. It took the other three and a half hours to brush down the rafters and sheathing, remove stray pieces of rock wool, and clean up the floor. One push-broom and three vacuum cleaners that took! I think the hose of my shop vac is almost shot, which doesn't help.
Is the job done? Well, almost. I found there's rock wool in the soffit space, and I haven't removed it, since I'm not sure how that'll interface with the spray foam. I want that area insulated, but somehow I don't see filling that whole space with the icynene. I mean, won't that drive up the price, and what if I do get a chance to remove the aluminum exterior trim and the wood board underneath needs replaced? On the other hand, does the foam have to run all the way to the gutter to prevent ice dams? I may have to cut 1x boards and run the floor all the way to where the roof comes down. Job for the portable circular saw, I expect.
I have the same question about the rock wool in the far southeast corner behind the lefthand closet. There's a little triangle of space with insulation blown into it; will they foam that, or do I need to create a barrier to separate the two?
There should be no question about the old birds' nest materials in the northeast corner behind the old chimney. It's got to go. But somehow I didn't want to remove it out tonight. Don't know why. May have something to do with the kink in my shop vac house. Maybe I want to see if there are any ornithological specimens in the mess. But I'd rather deal with it in the daytime.
| All cleaned up, barring the camera lens |
Thursday, March 4, 2010
A Breakthrough
My mom was talking about coming up and staying with me while I recuperate from surgery the end of this month.
That means getting some heat into the guest bedroom.
Not that there's no supply duct in there; there certainly is. It's just that it's never had a grille that fit. When I only had my senior cat, it didn't matter that it was uncovered. Rhadwen has no interest in spelunking the ductwork. But my little girl-cat, Gwenith, is an intrepid duct explorer, and ever since she and her brother Huw came to live with me, I've had the guest bedroom HVAC outlet covered with a piece of screen affixed to the wall(paper) with duct tape (stupid, stupid, stupid! I actually like that paper!), with a piece of 1 x 12 board over that , and the bed pushed against the wall over that.
The room is freezing.
I've tried to install the fancy Victorian grille the POs-1 left me. Over two years ago I even butch-- I mean, notched out the 8" high baseboard to accommodate its lower rim. But I had no luck making it stay.
But now it was time to call in the heavy artillery. I phoned a local HVAC contractor on Tuesday and yesterday one of their guys came.
He was very nice. He actually pushed the grille into place and screwed in the setscrew (helps having some strength). Says after I get it painted, he'll come back and do a proper job of it for around $75 or so.
Meanwhile, it's in there! And it's been made to fit! For the first time in over fourteen years, that bedroom register has a grille on it!
I feel bad for the HVAC guy, though. I talked to my mom this morning and due to some health issues of her own, she's not going to be able to come up to be with me after all. I don't say I won't have them come install the grille properly before I go into the hospital. After all, I'll need somebody here with me for a night or two. But for my mom, I think I would have made more of an effort to get it done and not settle for Good Enough.
Tuesday, August 14, 2007
Fitting a Simple Ductwork Grille, or, Let's Watch Kate Have Kittens!
As I reported on my cat-and-dog blog, a week or so ago, my friends Hannah* and Steve* rescued a feral kitten from the barn on their new property out in the sticks. Little pinky-yellow dirty fluffy thing. A lot more amenable to being picked up and held than you might expect. (Thank God.)
Couple of days later, they trapped and brought home (to their old house) its littermate, a stripey tabby.
Great fun for their young children, not so fun for Hannah and Steve. How can you properly domesticate a couple of feral kittens when you're a) trying to move out of your house in town before the closing date, b) working frantically to get your new 100-year-old country house habitable, and c) bunking with the in-laws until b) is accomplished?
The closing on their old house is tomorrow. Everything has to be out before 10:00 AM. So I've volunteered to get the kittens out from underfoot until the bathrooms and kitchen at the new house are in and my friends can get more settled.
I pick up the kitties later this evening. So this afternoon I had to tackle a project I've had on the To-Do list since I first looked at this house in June of 2003: Fit and secure the grille for the forced air duct outlet in the guest bedroom, soon to be known as the Kitten Room.
But kittens? Kittens are a different matter. The pinky-yellow one had already had to be lured out of a hole in the floor at my friends' new house. Kittens down the ductwork at mine? Kittens in the bowels of the furnace?? Do not want!
I'd been putting off cutting that baseboard because I didn't have the right tools. Two years ago, I pushed the bed up against that wall and forgot about it entirely.
But now I have a nice jigsaw. That should do it, right?
Wrong.
Get the extension cord, plug in the jigsaw. Nothing. Plug a lamp into the outlet. It shines. Plug the lamp into the extension cord. It shines on.
I check the saw owner's manual. No help. I call Black & Decker for tech support. They have no idea. Besides, the saw's out of warranty. Call somebody local? Damn! It's only two years old! It was working fine last time I used it a year ago!
I get an idea. Plug the saw directly into the outlet. It works.
Oh. It just doesn't like that particular extension cord!
Get a different, beefier cord. Jigsaw runs fine. Jigsaw does not cut the wooden baseboard. Bounces off. Dangerously. Not the right tool.
Do I need a reciprocal saw? No time to buy one this afternoon!
I then try the various little coping saws I find down in my cobweb-festooned basement workshop. No use, either.
So I resort to the Brute Force Method: My trusty hammer and chisel. And after a bit of labor, I come up with this:
But now I find that the grille won't fit into the duct outlet opening. The metal duct collar isn't big enough. How can that be?
Never mind. Hole has to be covered. Can't afford to have kittens over this--I'm going to have kittens.
I remove the collar and try to fit the grille in without it. Still too big! The heavy-gauge sheetmetal at the mouth of the duct is thick and wrinkled and won't let the grille neck in. Damn, again. That means a visit from the A/C and heating people.
But not today. So I got a piece of screening and my handy-dandy roll of duct tape and covered the opening over. Then I shoved the bed back against the wall and dropped a 12" x 24" plank between it and the duct opening. It rests nicely on the top of the baseboard. No kittens are getting in through there!
But why, oh why, do I have a grille that doesn't fit the duct opening?
Memory flies back to the day I stood there with the PO. I hear her telling me it'd been like that when they moved in and they'd never gotten it to fit, either.
Ah, yes. The dear POs-1 and their mania for Victoriana. Must've picked this pretty grille up at some antique shop or flea market sale. Thought it'd be perfect for the back bedroom. Got it home, discovered the duct was too low or the base was too high. Left it sitting there against the wall. "We'll install it someday."
Someday, for them, never came. Nor for the POs. Someday, for me, will be when I can afford to have the heating and cooling guys over. Or when heating season begins. Whichever comes first.
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*Fake names!
(Yes, this is a backdated entry!)
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